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Lunch at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Oxfordshire – Photo Gallery

2012 James Beard Foundation Awards Gala Reception

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2012 James Beard Foundation Awards Gala Reception

Cookshop Coffee Bar

Cookshop Coffee Bar

Two years ago, when I was visiting DC to check out the food scene, I kept hearing from all the chefs I spoke to about this fabulously talent, Amanda Cook. So it was with some dismay that I learned the James Beard-nominated pastry chef was leaving Citizen, and I wouldn’t be able to taste with her. There was talk of her opening a bakery, but I didn’t hear anything about it for a while, and so it slipped onto my back burner. Fast forward two years and she is presiding over the pastry program at New York’s Cookshop (try anything sundae or pie-related and you won’t be sorry). A couple of weeks ago, she added a beautiful coffee bar to the restaurant, that’s open in the mornings every weekday (they serve a pretty hard core brunch, so not to worry, if you show up at the weekend, you won’t go away hungry). Locals and commuters caught on, and have started trickling in for their morning joe only to find beautiful glass-domed platters of housemade muffins, croissants, cookies and more covering what moonlights as the bar. More and more have been sticking around for their caffeine-plus-pastry fix at the bar. If you’re the health-conscious type, there’s even housemade cherry granola and fruit. I went to check it out for myself, and fell in love with the fig oatmeal cookies, which dress up a Fig Newton flavor profile prettily. And the Jalapeno Cheddar Corn muffins were a far cry from your standard overly-sweet-and-gritty corn muffin, fragrant with fresh chilies and nicely balanced with a touch of salt.  Cookshop Coffee Bar, 156 Tenth Avenue at 20th Street, (212) 924-4440, http://cookshopny.com, Coffee Bar open Mon-Fri 7:30-11:00 am.

International Association of Culinary Professionals’ Book and Blog Fest

Roots of all Cookbooks – Culinary Historians of New York

Roots of all Cookbooks – Culinary Historians of New York

On Wednesday, I headed downtown to Astor Center, Carrot Pie in hand, to hear Anne Willan speak for latest Culinary Historians of New York event about her latest cookbook, The Cookbook Family Tree: A History of Early Cookbooks.  The pie is just one of the well-researched recipes in the book, and is based on a 16th century recipe by Bartolomeo Scappi, from Opera di M. Bartolomeo Scappi. One of my favorite parts about participating in CHNY events for the past couple of years has been that I don’t just go to the events, I usually cook a recipe relevant to the era being covered and bring it to the event, so folks is you don’t just hear about Medieval recipes, they get to taste them. Willan, of course, is legendary in the world of food, and has won an IACP Lifetime Achievement Award, James Beard Award, and Bon Appétit Teacher of the Year Award, to name just a few. She also happens to be a fellow Brit.

After some fabulous Lustau Amontillado Sherry and a tasting of recipes from the ages, sourced from the book, we settled in to enjoy some background on Willan’s latest. She focuses in the book on early cookbooks, and started off by tracing the history of the earliest cookbooks using a cookbook tree (not in the book, but a fabulous tool). One of the highlights was a sampling of some of the gorgeous artwork from the book, which Willan’s husband helped curate. Sadly I can’t include the recipe here for copyright purposes, but get the book and you can try it out for yourself!

I was actually amazed by the lack of detail in Scappi’s recipe. He basically says something along the lines of “make a pastry with these ingredients,” but Willan does a great job of developing the recipes properly for the book, with precision, so you don’t have to guess what Scappi meant. The pie included, of all things, carrots, Parmesan, rose water and candied orange peel, so it was sort of a combination I was unfamiliar with, but a good example of some of the bizarre savory-sweet combos that were popular in the 16th century. Some other great recipes served at the event were Gallina Morisca, a spiced Moorish chicken, and a caraway-spiced Seed Cake. Willan even managed to bring in some of her Ypocras, a sort of Medieval mulled wine, heavily spiced and served cold.

Here’s more on the event from blogger Local Bozo. Also, save the date for the next CHNY event at the National Arts Club with David Strauss:

Wednesday, April 18, 2012: ”Beating the Nazis with Truffles and Tripe: The Early Years of Gourmet: The Magazine of Good Living,” 

The Ration Diaries

The Ration Diaries

For the past few days I’ve been researching UK rations from World War II for my new blog The Ration Diaries. For those of you who haven’t seen it yet, it’s a blog inspired by the ultimate thrifty cook, my granny. She grew up during WWII in Kent, England, and somehow managed to get through the air raids, rationing and separation from her mother, and come out the other side with positivity and strength of spirit – not to mention a love of beef paste in a jar aka Bovril. Don’t ask. I grew up making Bramley apple pies with her, squishing the scrap dough into clumsy, greyish versions of the beautiful pastry roses she used to top them with. Those trips to her house in Gravesend, where she still lives, were a big part of what made me want to learn and write about food. I’ll work with the average rations an adult would have received during WWII in England. Here are some of fruits and veggies that would have been widely available this time of year:

As it turns out, carrots were big.

Image courtesy of The Carrot Museum

When 1941 rolled around, the Minister of Food started featuring posters pushing Brits to eat carrots, like the one above. Why carrots? For one thing, there were a lot of ‘em. Once rationing began in the UK and supplies from abroad were targeted by German U-boats, vegetables and fruits like citrus and grapes were hard to get hold of. Sugar was heavily rationed since it came from outside the UK. Massive amounts of carrots were available, though. And they were sweet and nutritious, so they could be subbed in for sugar in some desserts, and stood in for some of the nutrients missing now that certain produce was limited. Recipes and fact sheets were released, trying to convince the reluctant English population to eat them. ‘No, no, really, they’re great’ they seemed to say lamely. Understandably, Dr. Carrot, Carroty George, and Clara Carrot didn’t do a whole lot to convince kids that carrots were as good as chocolate and candy, both of which were heavily rationed.

These kids were probably the exception, I’m guessing.

Carrot Lollies, Image courtesy of BBC via The Carrot Museum

Carrots started piling up. Even though the English didn’t have access to much, they didn’t seem too keen on carrots. So posters started appearing claiming that since carrots are good for healthy vision, they would help kids and adults see during blackouts. They also started circulating the story that British RAF pilots manning the defences during German attacks were so successful because of their incredible night vision. They loved carrots so much that they were able to spot their prey in the dark!

In fact, the RAF invented this myth to hide their use of radar in spotting Luftwaffe bombers at night. But whatever the reason, the ploy worked and the English started growing and eating more carrots. Check out this post from The Carrot Museum on “Cats Eyes Cunningham,” the famous British night fighter pilot whose abilities sparked the superhero-night-vision carrot rumors.

Hot Toddy Food52 Style

Hot Toddy at John Dory Oyster Bar via gluttonforlife.com

I’ve always been a hot cocoa gal in winter. But last winter, I had a particularly nasty cold. I felt like I couldn’t breathe. The biting chill outside chased me into John Dory Oyster Bar, where I ordered Sasha Petraske’s anise-scented hot toddy, with bourbon, lemon and a hit of cinnamon. Bliss. My head cleared, my throat, which felt like I had swallowed barbed wire, was soothed and the flavors were both comforting and bold enough to cut through the fact that my nose had gone on strike.

So when I was testing out my new iPad App, the Food52 Holiday Recipe and Survival Guide, and saw that there was a recipe for a Hot Toddy (rye, raw sugar, hot water, lime zest and dried cherries), I was sold. Food52‘s version is rye-based, and based on the handy step-by-step photo gallery, they used Tuthilltown Spirits’ rye. Good for them, that’s my favorite brand too. Normally I’m more into bourbon but I decided to try it out anyway and I’m glad I did. In place of lemon and cinnamon, Food52 chose lime zest and dried cherries as the aromatics. It still had a cheery holiday feel thanks to the aroma of the lime zest and booze-soaked cherries, and since I made it after coming in from the cold (admittedly not from shoveling snow but from holiday shopping), it really warmed me up. Next time I think I’ll try soaking the dried cherries in the rye before making the drink since their flavor didn’t quite come through like I thought it would. Bonus, though? It’s Christmas colored.

Fair warning? If you have more than one of these, it may increase your napping stamina.

As with all of Food52′s recipes, the editing is top-notch and makes it several thousand steps above most commercial apps in that the dishes are hard to mess up since they’ve been so thoroughly tested. I think what makes them so special is that they are at the same time very, very thorough in their recipe testing, and great at breaking recipes down into basic steps. The stunning photography doesn’t hurt, either. For an excerpt from the app, in which they walk you through a basic 3-minute gravy click here. You can buy the app here for $3.99.

Craft Spirits in Portland

Craft Spirits in Portland
Craft Spirits at Clear Creek Distillery in Portland, OR
Wander up to any bar in Portland, OR and you’ll notice at least one local spirit. There’s tremendous support from Portlanders and the national scene alike. Many of these Portland spirits seem to find their ways to trendy San Francisco and New York bars. What blew me away when I visited many of these distilleries is that most of the operations are fairly small – one even fit into what appeared to me to be a converted garage! We may be seeing Portland spirits on New York shelves soon, if the influx of Moonstruck Chocolates and Olympic Provisions charcuterie are anything to go by.

(Micro) Buzzed in Portland

(Micro) Buzzed in Portland

Cappuccino at Portland, OR's Water Avenue Coffee

Portland-based Stumptown Coffee has helped pave the way for the city’s micro coffee roasters by showing a company could feasibly source, roast, and serve its own coffee, rather than purchasing from an outside roaster—in a sense, controlling the coffee from the field to the cup. Here’s a look at some of the faces of the Portland micro coffee roasting scene.

At Heart Coffee in Portland, OR the coffee is roasted inside the coffee house's space

Inside Water Avenue Coffee in Portland, OR

Owner (and brewing method guru) Willie Yi-Luoma prepares siphone-brewed coffee at Heart Coffee - Portland, OR

Happy Thanksgiving!

Happy Thanksgiving!

I’m spending Thanksgiving this year in London. With Brits like me. But we’ve grown rather fond of the celebratory bird and have decked the halls with turkey-themed decorations for the occasion so we’re going to ignore the fact that you did in fact escape from the terrible clutches of the English and go with the turkey thing. Happy Thanksgiving all! May your turkey skin be golden and your pecan/pumpkin pie flavorful.

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